
Book_ijclJ»ir_ 
CopyTight N" 



COFYHIGHT DEPOStr. 



Designing Overcoat 
Patterns 



for 



Men and Young Men 



By 
HARRY SIMONS 

Technical Editor of 

The Clothing Designer and Manufacturer 
New York, N. Y., U. S. A. 



-(--' 



355 



Copyright by Harry Simons 
1916. 



^6 



V) V 



m 22 1916 

©CI.A4;534a3 




INTRODUCTION. 

N presenting this book to my fellow craftsmen, I have endeavored 
to put forth a reliable and efficient method of designing over- 
coats. As publisher and technical editor of THE CLOTHING 
^ DESIGNER AND MANUFACTURER, I realized the necessity 
of such a book. 

Of late there have been many new overcoats designed that have found 
favor with the public, such as the Balmaroon, Split Sleeve Raglan, Mantle, 
and the Balmacaan. These are somewhat different than the usual run of 
overcoats. 

I have taken a great deal of care to bring forward a simple and 
scientific method of producing the drafts of these overcoats. I have made 
every effort to see that the diagrams are easily understood, so that the 
realer will not be confused. Every diagram is clearly and simply explained. 

Designers and cutters should not hesitate to use any of the drafts, as 
they are thoroughly tested and reliable. 

The points involved in the construction of the various diagrams in this 
book, cover every phase of designing up-to-date overcoats, and the designer 
or cutter should find just the information he seeks. 

Sincerely, 



70 Fifth Avenue, 
New York City. 



CONTENTS. 

I Pages 

Balmacaan, 1 piece sleeve 32-3-4. 

Balmacaan, split sleeve, with hinge 34-5. 

Balmaroon Overcoat 23. 

Balmaroon, 3 piece sleeve 24-5. 

Box Overcoat 14-5. 

Box Overcoat, extreme 12-3. 

Box Overcoat, Three Button S. B. Balmaroon Sleeve 22. 

Cape Overcoat, shoulder 30-31. 

Collar, shav^'l 20-1. 

Collar, under 21. 

Construction Lines 6-7. 

Convertible Collar Overcoat 26-7-8. 

Designing Overcoats 5. 

Form Fitting Overcoats, Y. Men's, 3 button, S. B 18. 

French Overcoat, Y. Men's 19. 

Double Breasted Overcoat 10-11. 

Double Breasted Overcoat and Sleeve 10-11. 

Mackinaw, military collar 42-3-4. 

Mackinaw, shawl collar 46-7. 

Mackinaw, raglan sleeve 44-5. 

Mantle Overcoat 36-7. 

Novelty Overcoat, Y. Men's 40-1. 

Regular Overcoat 8-9. 

Regular Overcoat, Y. Men's 20. 

Regular Sleeve • • . . 10-11 

Stout Overcoat 16-7. 

Surtout Overcoat, 2 button D. B. Y. Men's 38-9. 

Ulster Collar Overcoat, D. B 28-9-30. 




DESIGNING OVERCOATS 

F recent years designing overcoats has been considered the most 
important work of the clothing designer. The manufacturer 
who contemplates engaging a designer today, first inquires 
about his ability to design overgarments. If he is efficient in 
this line, he is generally capable. 

The drafts in this book are laid out to meet the average requii-ements. 
There are slight variations, which gives the reader an idea of the versality 
of the system employed. In changing about the seams at neck and shoulder 
points, the balance of the garment is not interfered with. The depth of 
scye in most all cases is drafted on a basis of two sizes larger than the 
breast measure employed ; that is, if the breast of coat is size 38. The coat 
is drafted size 40, the depth of scye size 42. If a size 38 coat is drafted, 
size 41 or 42, to get more roomy effect, the depth of scye should remain 
size 42, except where it is lowered below breast line to get a deeper arm- 
hole. 

You will notice that on the conservative and form fitting coats a size 
38 breast is drafted on a basis of 40. On the medium box 41 ; on the ex- 
treme box and ulster 42. This scheme should be followed out on any size, 
two sizes larger for regular overcoats, three sizes larger for full coats or 
where cheaper goods are made four sizes larger for full box and all loots 
overcoats. 

The method of drafting the regular sleeve is illustrated on the double 
breasted overcoat. The same method is employed on the various garments 
with regular sleeve. The draft of the collar is illustrated with a separate 
diagram. 

Every point has been carefully covered in this book, and the reader 
should have no trouble in creating any style garment that should appear 
in the near future. 



CONSTRUCTION LINES. 

THE diagram on the opposite page gives you the construction lines for 
the back and forepart of the overcoat. The proportions and divisions 
used are the basic principles by which all the drafts contained in this book 
are made. The breast measurements used in most drafts are sizes 36 and 
38. The measurement used in explaining the construction lines is based 
on a breast size 38. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast, 38. 
Length, 44. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is 14 of 21. 
B to D is 1/2 of 21. 
B to E is 171/2 inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is the full length or 44 inches. 
Square out from points A B C D E F G. 
E I0 H is 'Vk inch. 
G to I is % inch. 
Draw lines B-H and H-I. 
B to 5 is 1/6 of 21. 
5 to K is 1/2 inch. 
Square up from K to L. 
K to L is 11/2 inches. 

D to M is 1/3 of the breast or 1/3 of 20, as the overcoat is drafted 2 
sizes larger than the sack breast measurement. 
M to N is 2 inches. 
Square up from N to 0. 
P is halfway between O and 20. 
P to Q is 1/2 inch. 
21 is halfway between O and 20. 
N to R is 1/12 of 20. 
R to S is -y,. inch. 
N to T is 1/2 inch. 
Square down from T to U. 
U to V is 1 inch. • 
Draw line W-V, which finishes all the construction lines on the back. 

FOREPART. 
D to X is 2/3 of 20. 
X to Y is 1% inches. 
Square up from Y to Z. 
Z to 2 is 1/6 of 20. 

2 to 3 is i/j inch. 
Square down from 3 to 10. 

3 to 10 is 14 inch. 

Draw lines 10-P and 10-21. 

23 to 4 is 20 inches or Vj> of breast. 

4 to 5 is 21/2 inches. 

5 to 6 is 2V2 inches. 

Square lines 13-12-16, which gives you the run of the front. 
7 to 8 is 1/6 of breast. 
Z to 9 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw line 8-9. 

6 




CONSTRUCTION LINES. 



W to 22 is 1/2 inch. 

I to 23 is y2 of breast. 

Draw line 22-23, which finishes the forepart. 

These points are for a regular, conservative, single breasted overcoat. 
The reader should follow the different variations on the various drafts, and 
take note of the changes made to get the desired effects. 



MEN'S REGULAR OVERCOAT. 

The diagram illustrated on the opposite page is a conservative over- 
coat, with no under arm Vee. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 38. 
Length, 44 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is 14 of 21. 
B to D is 1/2 of 21. 
B to E is 171/0 inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 

Square out from points A B C D E F G. 
E to I is % inch. 
G to H is % inch. 
Draw the center seam A-I-H. 
B to P is 1/6 of 21 plus 1/2 inch. 
P to Q is 11/2 inches. 
Draw A-Q. 
D to J is 1/3 of 20. 
J to K is 2 inches. 
Square up from K to O. 
R is halfway between and U. 
Draw line Q-R. 

6 is halfway between R and U. 
K to S is 1/12 of 20. 

S to T is 1 inch. 

Draw line R-T. 

Square down from K to M. 

M to N is 1 inch. 

Shape the side-seam T-L-N, which finishes the back. 

FOREPART. 
D to V is 2/3 of 20. 

V to W is 1% inhes. 

Square up from W to 3. 1 

3 to 5 is 1/6 of 20 plus 1/2 inch. 
D to X is 20 inches or 1/2 of breast. 
X to Y is 21/2 inches. 

Y to Z is 2'/2 inches. 

Square up from Z to 8 and down from Z to 19. 
Draw lines 5-R and 5-6. 

7 to 5 is % less than R to Q. 

Shape the shoulder 7-5 and the armhole 7-T. 

8 to 9 is 1/6 of 20. 
3 to 4 is V-2 inch. 
Draw line 4-9. 

Shape the gorge and lapel 5-12-10-9-13. 

14 to 16 is ■">}! inch. 

Square lines 15-16-17. 

Shape the front 13-17. 

Take out Vi inch at point T. 

L to 20 is 1/2 inch. 




MEN'S REGULAR OVERCOAT. 

H to 22 is 1/12 of breast. 

Draw line 20-22. 

Sweep from point 5 using .5-22 as a radiant to point 19. 

Shape the side-seam T-20-22, which completes the draft. 



D. B. OVERCOAT AND SLEEVE DRAFT. 

The double breasted overcoat is drafted the same as the single breasted, 
with the extra allowance for the button stand, as illustrated. In this draft, 
you will note that I take out a 1/2 inch Vee at point 18, which makes the 
coat a semi-form fitting; at the same time point Q is brought in to meet 
the back to give enough allowance for the seams at point 19. 

DRAFT. 
D to 4 is 1/2 of the breast. 

4 to 5 is 21/2 inches. 

5 to 6 is 1 inch. 

Square up from 6 to 7 and down from 6 to 17, which is the center line. 

6 to 10 is 21/2 inches or 1/2 of the button stand. 
Square down from 10 to 11. 

Draw line 8-9 and shape the gorge the same as in the single breasted 
overcoat. 

Shape the lapel 8-16. 

Square 14-13-15. 

Shape the front of coat, as illustrated. 

DRAFTING SLEEVE. 

V to 40 is ll^ inches. 
Point 40 is the notch. 

40 to 20 is 1/2 of breast less 14 inch. 

Square up from 20 to 21 and down from 20 to 31. 

to line 21-22 is % inch. 

23 is halfway between 21 and 22. 

22 to 24 is li of 22-21. 

V to 25 is li/i inches. 

V to 26 is 114 inches. 
Draw line 24-40. 

Shape the head of sleeve 20-23-40-25. 
Square down from V to 28. 

V to 28 is 18 inches. 

28 to 29 is 1 inch. 

29 to 27 is 114 inches. 
29 to 30 is 114 inches. 
Draw lines 25-27 and 26-30. 

Shape the inseam of top sleeve 25-33-27, hollowing % inch at point 33. 

29 to 35 is 7 inches, V2 of the botton of sleeve plus the seams. 

Square down from 35 to 36. 

35 to 36 is IV2 inches. 

31 to 32 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape the outside seam 20-32-36. 

Shape the bottom 36-27, which completes the top sleeve. 

UNDER SLEEVE. 
22 to 37 is % inch. 
Shape the outside seam 37-31-36. 
37 to 43 is % inch. 
Draw line 43-42-26. 

Shape the inseam 26-34-30, hollowing out % inch at point 34. 
Shape the bottom 36-30, which completes the sleeve. 



10 




D. B. OVERCOAT AND SLEEVE DRAFT. 



11 



EXTREME BOX OVERCOAT. 



This overcoat is drafted four 
sizes larger than the breast size. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 38. 
Length, 42 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line A B C D E F G. 

A to B is 34 inch. 

B to C is 14 of 21. 

B to D is 1/2 of 21. 

B to E is 18 inches. 

B to F is 24 inches. 

B to G is the full length or 42 
inches. 

Square out from points A B C D 
E F G. 

G to H is 114 inches. 

Draw line B-H. 

D to L is 1/3 of 21. 

L to M is 2 inches. 

Square up from M to 0. 

B to J is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. 

Square up from J to K. 

J to K is 11/2 inches. 

Draw line A-K. 

N to is 1/8 of 21. 

Draw line K-0. 

D to V is 2/3 of 21 plus 1% 
inches. 

Q is halfway between M and V. 

Square down from Q to R. 

Line 10-P is 1 inch lower than 
the breast line. 



Shape the armhole 0-Q. 
R to U is 1/6 of 21. 
Draw line Q-U. 

Shape the bottom U-H, which 
completes the back. 

FOREPART. 

Square up fi'om V to W. 

W to X is 1/6 f21 plus 3^ inch. 

Drop the point of shoulder \^ 
inch at X. 

Di'aw line X-0. 

X to 2 is % less than K to O. 

2 to 3 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape the shoulder 3-X. 

Shape the armhole 3-Q. 

H to S is 1/12 of 21. 

Draw line Q-S. 

Q to T is Vs longer than Q to U. 

D to Y is 21 inches, 1/2 of breast. 

Y to Z is 5 inches. 

Square up from Z to 4 and down 
from Z to 12. 

4 to 5 is 1/6 of 21. 
Draw line W-5. 

T to 6 is 314 inches. 
6 to 8 is 2% inches. 

5 to 9 is IOV2 inches. 

Shape the gorge and lapel, as 
illustrated. 

11 to 12 is 2 inches. 
Draw line T-12. 

12 to 13 is 2 inches. 

Shape the front and bottom, 
which completes the draft. 



12 




EXTREME BOX OVERCOAT. 



13 



MEDIUM BOX OVERCOAT. 

This draft is for a medium box overcoat, finishing up about 66 inches 
sweep. You will note that the shoulders are made narrower than on the 
regular overcoat. The neck at back is made ^ inch wider. This amount 
is taken off from the strap at point U. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 38. 
Length, 44 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is -'/i. inch. 
B to C is 14 of 21. 
B to D is Va of 21. 
B to E is 18 inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 

B to G is 44 inches or the full length of coat. 
Square out from points A B C D E F G. 
G to H i.s 114 inches. 
Draw line B-H. 

B to I is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. 
I to J is l^'i. inches. 
Draw line A-J. 

D to L is 2/3 of 201/0. On the box overcoat, I make the breast 3 sizes 
larger than the sack measurement. 
L to M is 2 inches. 
Square up from M to N. 
K is halfway between N and 15. 
V is halfway between K and 15. 
Draw line J-K. 
K to 16 is % inch. 
M to is H/4 inches. 
O to P is 1 inch. 
Draw line 16-P. 

H to Q the bottom is 1 inch more than D to P. 
Draw line P-Q, which finishes the back. 

FOREPART. 
D to R is 2/3 of 20»/2 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from R to S. 
S to T is 1/6 of 20i/> plus % inch. 
Square down from T to U. 
T to U is i/j inch. 
Draw lines U-K and U-V. 
T to W is % less than J to 16. 
Shape the shoulder W-U and the armhole W-Y. 
16 to Z is 201/0 inches. 
Z to 3 is 5 inches. 
Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 10. 

4 to 5 is 1/6 of 201/2. 

5 to 6 is 1/0 inch. 
Draw line 6-5. 

Shape the gorge U-7-5. 

6 to 8 is 101/2 inches. 
13 to 12 is % inch. 



14 




MEDIUM BOX OVERCOAT. 

Square down from 11, 12 to 14. 

Shape the lapel and front. 

P to Y is Vi inch. 

Draw line Y-H. 

Shape the bottom X-14, which completes the forepart. 

Place the buttons 3 inches from edge, as illustrated. 

R to 17 is 111/2 inches, the proper location for pocket. 

15 



STOUT OVERCOAT. 

The draft on the opposite page is for a regular stout overcoat. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 40. 
Waist. 40. 
Length, 42. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is V^ inch. 
B to C is 14 of 22. 
B to D is 1/2 of 22. 
B to E is 171/2 inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is full length or 42 inches. 
Square out from points A B C D E F G. 
E to 26 is % inch. 
G to H is % inch. 
Draw line B-26-H. 

B to line K is 1/6 of 22 plus 1/2 inch. 
K is 11/2 inches from line B. 
Draw line A-K. 

D to L is 2/,3 of 21 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from L. 

N is halfway between lines B and P. 
N to O is 1/4 inch. 
Draw line K-0. 
L to T is 1/12 of 22. 
T to U is % inch. 
Draw line 0-U. 
L is 1/2 inch from T-N. 
Square down from L to Q. 
Q to R is 1 inch. 
Shape the side-seam U-S-R, which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 
— D to W is 2/3 of 21 plus 1% inches. 

Square up from W to Z. 

Z to 3 is 14 inch less than 1/6 of 21. 

Draw lines 3-N and 3-2. 

3 to 11 is % inch less than K to 0. 

Shape the shoulder 11-3 and the armhole 11-U. 

21 to 22 is 21/2 inches. 

Draw line S-22. 

Shape the side-seam U-22-23, which is 14 inch more than U-R. 

D to X is 1/2 of the breast, or 21 inches. 

X to Y is 5 inches. 

Square up from Y to 7 and down from Y to 19. 

12 to 13 is 2/3 of 1/2 of the fat, which in this case is 1 inch, as the waist 
on the regular figure is figured at 37 inches and the stout 40 inches, making^ 
a difference of 3 inches of fat. 

Square down from 13 to 18. 

3 to 6 is 1/6 of 20. 

Draw lines 7-14-19. 



16 




STOUT OVERCOAT. 

7 to 8 is 1/6 of 20. 

Shape the gorge 3-8 and the lapel 8-9. 

18 to 19 is li/> inches. 

Shape the front and the bottom, which completes the draft. 

The sleeve is drafted the same as regular overcoat. 



IT 



YOUNG MEN'S THREE BUTTON S. B. FORM 
FITTING OVERCOAT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 36. 
Length, 40 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is Vi of 21. 
B to D is i/> of 20. 
B to E is 16 1/2 inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is the full length or 40 inches. 
Square out from points A B C D E F G. 
E to 20 is 114 inches. 
G to 21 is 1 inch. 
Draw line A-20-21. 
20 to Q is 1/3 of 18. 
B to K is 1/6 of 20 plus % inch. 
K to L is IV^ Inches. 
Draw line A-L. 

D to H is 1/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from H to 5. 
N is halfway between T and 5. 
M is halfway between P and H. 
M to V is 1/2 inch. 
N to is 1/2 inch. 
Draw line L-0 and 0-V. 
Square down from Q to R. 
R to S is 1 inch. 
Shape the side-seam V-Q-S, which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 
D to W is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from W to X. 
X to Y is 1/6 of 18 plus i/> inch. 
Y to Z is 1/2 inch. 
Draw lines Z-N and Z-3. 
3 is halfway between N and P. 
2 to Z is i/i inch less than L to O. 
Shape the shoulder 2-Z and the armhole 2-V. 
Q to 4 is 1 inch. 
T to U is 21/2 inches. 
Shape the side-seam V-4-U-5. 
D to 6 is 19 inches. 
6 to 7 is 5 inches. 
Square up from 7 to 8 and down from 7 to 12. 

8 to 9 is 1/6 of 19. 
X to 10 is 34. inch. 
Draw line 10-9. 

9 to 16 is 11 inches. 



18 




YOUNG MEN'S THREE BUTTON S. B. FORM 
FITTING OVERCOAT. 

Shape the gorge Z-9 and the lapel 9-16. 

11 to 12 is 2 inches. 

12 to 13 is 1% inches. 
Draw line 5-12. 

Shape the front 16-13 and the bottom 13-5, which completes the draft. 



19 



YOUNG MEN'S REG- 
ULAR OVERCOAT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast, 36. 
Length, 40. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line A B C D E F. 

A to C is 14 of 20. 

A to B is 1/2 of 20. 

A to D is 16 1/0 inches. 

A to E is 24 inches. 

A to F is 40 inches, or the length 
of coat. 

Come up % inch from point A. 

A to line is 1/6 of 20 plus 1/2 
inch. 

is 11/2 inches from line A. 
Draw line A-0. 

D to G is 1 inch. 

F to H is % inch. 

Shape the center seam A-G-H. 

B to I is 1/3 of 19. 

1 to J is 2 inches. 
Square up from J to K. 
K to Q is Vn of 20. 
Draw line 0-Q. 

J to R is 1/12 of 20. 
R to S is % inch. 
Draw line Q-S. 
G to L is 1/3 of 20. 
Draw line I-L-M. 
Shape the side-seam S-L-14-M, 
which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 

B to T is 2/3 of 19 plus 1% 
inches. 

Square up from T to U. 

U to V is 1/6 of 19 plus 1/2 inch. 

11 is halfway between line C 
and Q. 

Draw line V-11. 

V to 9 is 14. less than Q to 0. 

Shape the shoulder 9-V and the 
armhole 9-10-S. 

B to W is 19 inches. 

W to X is 2V; inches. 

X to Y is 2V2 inches. 

Square up from Y to 1. 

1 to 2 is 1/6 of 19. 
Draw line U-2. 

2 to 6 is 10 inches. 

Shape the gorge and the lapel. 
Square down from Y to Z. 

Shape the front and bottom. 

L to 12 is 1 inch. 

14 to 13 is 21/2 inches. 

Shape the side-seam S-12-13, 
which completes the forepart. 

Take out % inch Vee at point 15 
and 14 inch at point 10. 




SHAWL COLLAR. 

Add % inch of stand on back, as 
illustrated. 

A to E is % inch. 

B to D is % inch. 

Draw line E-D. 

Shape the shoulder D-C. 

Add the %. inch on forepart, as 
illustrated. 

F to H is % inch. 

Shape the gorge H-G-R. 

COLLAR. 

Extend the break J-G to L. 

S to L is the width of back plus 
14 inch. 

Square down from L to M. 

L to M is l^ of breast. 

Draw line M-N. 

N is 14 inch from G-H. 

Square up from M to P. 

M to is ^1. inch, the width of 
stand. 



20 




Draw line 0-G, the break. 

O to P is 31/2 inches. 

P to Q is 1/2 inch. 

Draw line M-Q. 

Shape the under-seam of collar 
M-C-K, as illustrated. 

Shape the outside seam of collar 
^-R-K, which completes the draft. 

DRAFTING THE UNDER- 
COLLAR. 

Extend the break A-B to C. 

Draw line J-E parallel to A-B. 

N to D is 114 inches. 

D to J is i/t inch. 

D to E is the width of back. 

E to F is 1/1, inch allowed extra 
for fullness. 

Square up from F to K. 

K to L is 14. inch. 

C to K is 214 inches, the width 
of turnover. This can be made in 
various widths. 

B to I is 14 inch. 

G to H is 14 inch. 

Draw line K-H. 

Shape the bottom part F-J-I 
and see that it has the same run as 
the gorge D-B-G. 

Draw lines B-C-L and L-M. 

Shape the notch M-H, which 
completes the undercollar. 



SHAWL COLLAR. 




REGULAR COLLAR. 



21 



BALMAROON OVERCOAT. 



This sleeve is drafted in two 
parts. The coat is drafted 4 sizes 
larger than the sack coat breast 
measure. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 38. 
Length, 42 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line A B C D E F G. 

A to B is % inch. 

B to C is 14 of 21. 

B to D is 1/2 of 21. 

B to E is 18 inches. 

B to F is 24 inches. 

B to G is the full length or 42 
inches. 

Square out from points A B C D 
E F G. 

G to H is 11/2 inches. 

Draw line G-H. 

G to I is 1/6 of 21 plus 3^ inch. 

1 to J is 11/2 inches. 
Draw line A-J. 

D to T is 1/3 of 21 plus 2 inches. 

Square up from T to L. 

L to M is i/a of 21 less 1 inch. 

Draw line J-M. 

D to U is 2/3 of 21 plus 1% 
inches. 

Square up from U to W. 

U to V and T to K are 1 inch 
each. 

Draw line V-K. 

is halfway between V and K. 

Shape the armhole M-0. 

Square down from to P. 

P to R is 1/6 of 21. 

Draw line 0-R. 

Shape the bottom, which com- 
pletes the back. 

FOREPART. 
W to 2 is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. 
Square down from 2 to 4. 

2 to 4 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw line 4-N. 
4 to 18 is Vi- inch less than J to 



M. 



Draw the shoulder 18-4 and the 



armhole 18-0. 

H to S is 14 of 21. 

Draw line 0-S, Vs inch longer 
than 0-R. 

D to X is 21 inches. 

X to Y is 5 inches. 

Square up from Y to Z and down 
from Y to 12. 

Z to 3 is 1/6 of 21. 

3 to 33 is 11 inches. 

Shape the gorge and the lapel. 

Take out 14 inch Vee at point 7. 

Square lines 8-10-13. 

Sweep from point S, using 4-S as 
a radius. 

Draw line S-13-12. 

Shape the front and bottom, 
which completes the forepart. 

SLEEVE. 

U to 34 is 114 inches. 

34 to 14 is 1/2 of 21. 

Square down from point 14 and 
up to 15. 

M to line 15 is II4 inches. 

Square over from 14 to 18. 

V to 21 is the same distance as 
V to 25. 

Line 14 to 25 is 1/2 inch less than 
the distance from line 14 to 0. 

14 to 16 is % inch more than 
from N to M. 

Shape the back part of sleeve 25- 
14-16. 

12 is halfway between 21 and 25. 

Square down from 12 to 28. 

28 to 26 and 28 to 27 is 14 inch 

28 to 30 and 28 to 29 are 71/4 
inch each. 

Draw the center seam 16-26 and 
the under seam 25-30, which com- 
pletes the back part of sleeve. 

16 to 17 is % inch. 

12 to 24 is y., inch. 

Draw line 17-24-27. 

19 to 31 is y« of 21. 

Shape the head of front sleeve 
17-31-21. 

Draw line 21-29 and shape the 
bottom 28-29, which completes the 
draft. 



22 




BALMAROON OVERCOAT. 



23 



THREE PIECE BALMAROON SLEEVE. 

This coat is drafted similar to the box overcoat, as described in 
previous diagram. 

MEASUREMENT. 
Breast size, 38. 

DRAFT OF TOP SLEEVE. 

12 to 13 is 1/2 of 21. 

Square up from 13 to 14 and down from 13 to 19. 
K to 16 is 1 inch. 
Square out from 14 to 15. 

13 to 20 is ^^ |. inch. 
Square down from 20 to 21. 

19 to 24 is the same distance as T to 21. 

N to 22 is 1 14 inches. 

N to 23 is 114 inches. 

Square down from N to 28. 

28 to 14 inch from line N. 

28 to 27 is 21/j inches. 

Draw line 23-27, hollowing % inch at point 25. 
^ Draw line 22-28, hollowing •' |. inch at point 26. 

13 to 16 is •! |. inch more than 31 to K. 

Shape the head of sleeve 24-13-16. 

28 to 30 is 7 inches. 
'.A^ Square down from 30 to 29. 
' 30 to 29 is I'i inches. 

Draw line 24-29. 

Shape the center seam of top sleeve 16-31-32, splitting the top sleeve 
in half. 

32 to 33 is % inch. 

15 to 18 is 1/3 of 15 to 14. 

Draw line 18-12. 

Shape the head of sleeve 17-12-23. 

Draw line 17-33, which completes the top sleeve. 

UNDER SLEEVE. 

Draw lines 22-P and P-29, rounding ^'i. inch at point 6. 
Shape the bottom 29-28, which completes the draft. 



24 




THREE PIECE BALMAROON SLEEVE. 



25 



CONVERTIBLE COLLAR OVERCOAT. 

The draft illustrated on the opposite page is for a conservative convert- 
ible collar overcoat. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast, 38. 
Length, 50 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is 14 of 21. 
B to D is 1/2 of 21. 
B to E is 171/2 inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is the full length or 50 inches. 
Square out from points A B C D E F G. 
G to H is 11/2 inches. 
Draw line B-H. 

B to I is 1/6 of 20 plus V2 inch. 
Square up from I to K. 
J to K is % inch. 
Draw line A-K. 

D to M is 1/3 of 20 1/2 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from M to N. 
L is halfway between N and 0. 
M to P is 114 inches. 
Draw line K-L. 

H to R is IV2 inches more than D to Q. 
Shape the side-seam Q-R. 
A to 31 is % inch. 
Shape 31-30. 
Draw line 30-L, which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 
D to S is 2/3 of 201/2 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from S to T. 
T to U is 1/6 of 201/2 plus 1/2 inch. 
U to V is 14 inch. 
Draw line V-L. 
U to 4 is V4. less than K to L. 
4 to 5 is % inch. 
Shape the shoulder 5-V. 
Q to 6 is 14 inch. 
Shape the armhole 5-6. 
H to 7 is 1 inch. 
Draw line 6-13-7. 

Shape the side-seam 6-13, which is 14 more than Q-R. 
W is 201/2 inches from line B-H. 
W to X is 21/2 inches. 
X to Y is 2 1/2 inches. 

Square up from Y to Z and down from Y to 3. 
Z to 8 is Vk of 20. 
Square out from 8 to 9. 
9 to 24 is 1/6 of 201/2 plus % inch. 
Shape the gorge V-24-25. 



26 




CONVERTIBLE COLLAR OVERCOAT. 

8 to 15 is 11 '/i inches. 

Shape the lapel and front 8-15-12. 

Sweep from point 13, leaving V-13 as a radius, to establish point ^. 

Draw line 13-3. 

Shape the bottom 12-13. 

U to 11 is % inch. 

Re-shape the gorge 11-24. 

11 to 24 is 14. of 19, which completes the forepart. 

27 



COLLAR. 
Extend line 15-16 to 17. 

18 to 19 is the width of the bad 30-31 plus 14, inch. 
Square down from 19 to 20. 

19 to 20 is 1/k of the breast. 
Draw line 20-16. 

Square up from 20 to 22. 

20 to 21 is Yi. inch. 

21 to 22 is 3 inches. 

22 to 23 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw line 20-21-23. 

Shape the outside 23-25, which completes the collar. 



D. B. ULSTER COLLAR OVERCOAT. 

The Ulster Collar 0. C. is drafted 4 sizes larger than the breast 
measurement of sack. On this draft, the breast size is 38, and the overcoat 
is drafted by the size 42. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Brea.st size, 38. 
Length, 50 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line A B C D E F G. 

A to B is lV-2 inches. Note that this measui'ement is % inch higher 
than the regular draft, as I believe that in taking this extra % inch off the 
collar stand and adding it on to the back and forepart respectively, you get 
a much better result. 

B to C is 14 of 22. 

B to D is 1/2 of 22. 

B to E is 171/2 inches. 

B to F is 24 inches. 

B to G is 50 inches. 

Square out from points A B C D E F G. 

B to J is 1/6 of 21 plus V-z inch. 

Square up from J to K. 

J to K is 214 inches. 

Draw line A-K. 

D to L is 1/3 of 21. 

L to M is 2 inches. 

Square up from M to 0. 

P is halfway between and line C. 

2 is halfway between P and line C. 

Draw line K-P. 

M to S is 1 inch. 

S to T is 1 inch. 

Draw line P-T. 

Square down from M to Q. 

Q to R is 1/6 of 21 plus V2 inch. 

Draw line T-R. 

G to H is IV2 inches. 



28 




back. 



D. B. ULSTER COLLAR OVERCOAT. 

Draw the center seam B-H and shape the bottom, which completes the 



29 



FOREPART. 
D to V is 2/3 of 21 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from V to Z. 
Z to 3 is 16 of 21 plus I14 inches. 
Draw lines 3-P and 3-2. 
3 to 10 is 1/4 less than K to P. 
Shape the shoulder 10-3 and the armhole 10-U-T. 
U is 1/2 i"ch lower than the breast line. 
Take out ' 4 inch at point T. 
Draw line T-H. 

Draw the side-seam 2-16, • ji inch longer than T-R. 
D to W is 21 inches. 
W to X is 31/2 inches. 

X to Y is 31/^ inches, for a 7 inch button stand. 
Square up from Y to 5 and down from Y to 18. 

3 to 4 is 1/6 of 21 plus 1/2 inch. 
Square down from 4 to 8. 

4 to 8 is Vii of 21. 

Square out from 8 to 7 and from 8 to 9. 
7 to 20 is 111/2 inches. 

Shape the gorge and lapel, as illustrated, taking out 14 inch Vee at 
point 11. 

Square 14-15 to 19. 

Sweep from 3-16 to 18. 

Draw 16-18. 

Shape the bottom 16-19, which completes the forepart. 

COLLAR. 
Draw the break 20-26. 
3 to 22 is the width of back plus "4 inch. 

Square down from break intersecting 22 to point 23, which is % of 21. 
23 to 22 is •■! ,. inch. 
Draw line 22-26. 
Shape the bottom 23-27. 
22 to 24 is 4 inches. 

Shape the lines 24-25 and 25-27, which completes the draft. 
Note : — When drafting collar, refer to the draft of shawl collar. 

SHOULDER CAPE OVERCOAT. 

This garment is drafted with a-^^ B to K is 1/6 of 21 plus 1/2 inch, 
military collar, and should be made ^ Square up from K to J. 
with a whole back. K to J is li/o inches. 

Draw line A-J. 
MEASUREMENTS. D to G is 1/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. 

Breast, 38. c. £ /-. ^ tt 

Length, 42 inches. Square up from G to H. 

M is halfway between G and H. 
DRAFT. M to L is 1/12 of 21. 

Draw line A B C D E F. G to H is 1/6 of 21 plus V2 inch. 

A to B is % inch. F to P is 22 inches. 

B to C IS 14 of 21. „ J, r, ^ r\ 

B to D is 1/, of 21. S^"^^^ "P ^^""^ P ^^ 0- 

B to E is 17i/> inches. Sweep from pomt J, using J-F 

B to F is the full length. as a radius to locate 0. 
Square out from points A B C D Draw lines J-0 and 0-P, which 

E F. complete the back. 



30 




SHOULDER CAPE OVERCOAT. 



FOREPART. 

H to X is 1/6 of 20 plus 1/2 inch. 

H to 3 is 1/2 inch. 

P to 6 is 1 inch. 

Square up from 6 to 5. 

Draw line X-3-5, the same 
distance as J-0. 

D-H-S is 20 inches. 

S to T is 41/2 inches. 

Square up from T to U and down 
from T to V. 

B to Y is 1/6 of 20. 

Draw line H-Y and shape the 
gorge X-Y. 

Y to Z is 1 inch. 

Z to 1 is 1 1/2 inches. 

Shape the front and bottom, as 



illustrated, 
forepart. 



which completes the 



COLLAR. 
Draw line 1-2-3. 

1 to 2 is 11/2 inches. 

2 to 3 is 834 inches. 

Square down from points 1-2-8. 

3 to 7 is IV2 inches. 
7 to 6 is 4% inches. 
6 to 12 is 1/2 inch. 

2 to 8 is 114 inches. 

Draw line 7-2-1. 

Make the stand at back IV^ 
inches. 

Shape line 7. 

10 to 9 is 2H inches. 

Draw line 12-9. 

Shupe the back and front, which 
completes the collar. 



31 



ONE PIECE SLEEVE BALMACAAN. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast, 38. 
Length, 44 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line JABCHIGEF. 
J to A is % inch. 
A to B is 14 of 21. 
B to C is 14 of 21. 
C to I is 3 inches. 
H is halfway between C and I. 
A to D is 18 inches. 
A to E is 24 inches. 
A to F is 44 inches. 
A to M is 1/6 of 21. 
Square up from M to 0. 
M to O is 11/2 inches. 
F to G is IVo inches. 
Draw line A-G. 
Draw line J-N. 

I to K is 2/3 of 21 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from K to L. 

1 to is 2/3 or 21 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from to P. 

S is halfway between R and T. 
Square down from S to 2. 
Draw line N-4. 
Shape the armhole N-19-5. 

2 to 3 is l/j. of 21. 

Draw the side-seam 4-3 and shape the bottom 3-G. which completes 
the back. 

FOREPART. 
C to X is 21 inches. 
X to Y is 21/j inches. 
Y to Z is 2 inches. 

Square up from Z to 12 and down from Z to 9. 
Square up from to P. 
P to 14 is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. 
14 to 17 is -V, inch. 
Draw line 17-18 and 18-5. 
Shape the armhole 17-18-5. 

14 to 15 is 1/6 of 21 plus i/j inch. 
Square down 15 to 16. 

15 to 16 is 1/6 of 21. 

16 to 35 is 2 inches. 

Sweep from points 17 the distance 17-7 to point 9. 
Draw line 7-9. 
9 to 10 is 11/2 inches. 

Shape the gorge, front and bottom as illustrated. 
7 to G is 1/6 of 21. 

Draw line 5-7 one-fourth inch more than 4-3, which completes to the- 
forepart. 

SLEEVE. 
Square down from S to 30. 
S to 30 is 18 inches. 
Square both ways from 30. 

32 




ONE PIECE SLEEVE BALMACAAN. 



30 to 31 is 714 inches. 

30 to 32 is 714 inches. 

Sweep from point 19, using N-19 as a radius. 

Sweep from point 18, using 17-18 as a radius. 

Note the intersection at point 20. 

33 



28 to 20 is l/o inch. 

20 to 27 is 1 inch. 

Draw lines 20-19 and 20-18. 

Sweep from point 19, using 4-19 as a radius. 

Note where it intersects line C. 

Sweep from point 18, using lS-5 as a radius. 

Note where it intersects line C at point Y. 

Y to 23 is 1 Vi inches. 

Draw line 27-23, dropping 1 inch at point 24. 

Draw line 28-21, dropping 1 inch at point 29. 

Draw lines 23-31 and 21-32, which completes the sleeve. 

Note: — This draft is for a military collar Balmacaan. The collar is 
drafted the same as illustrated in the draft of Military Collar Mackinaw. 
You will also note that this draft is made 4 sizes larger than the sack breast 
measurement, so that the garment will be full. 

SPLIT SLEEVE BALMACAAN WITH HINGE. 

This diagram is drafted the same as the whole sleeve Balmacaan with 
the exception of the sleeve which is explained below. 

MEASUREMENT. 

Breast size, 38. 

Length 42. 

SPLIT SLEEVE DRAFT. 

Square down from point S. 

S to 30 is 18 inches. 

Square both ways from 30. 

80 to 31 and 30 to 32 are 7 inches each. 

R to 41 is 114, inches, the notch. 

41 to 20 is 1/2 of 21, the width of sleeve. 

Sweep from point 19, using N-19 as a radius. 

Take the distance N-19 and sweep from point 20 intersecting at 
point 28. 

Divide 18 to 20 in half, locating point 27. 

Sweep the distance 27-28, making the arch 28-36. 

Sweep from point 18, using 17-18 as a radius, intersecting at point 36. 

36 to 37 is 1 inch. 

28 to 38 is 1 inch. 

Sweep from point 19, using the distance 4-19 as a radius, intersecting 
at point C. 

Draw line 38-20-21. 

Shape the inseam 28-27-4-39. 

30 to 39 is 14 inch. 

Shape the under arm seam and the bottom C-32 and 32-39, which com- 
pletes the back part of sleeve. 

FRONT SLEEVE. 

30 to 40 is % inch. 

18 Sweep from point 18, using 5-18 as a radius, intersecting line C at 
point 22. 

22 to 23 is 1/2 inch. 

18 to 44 is % inch. 

Shape the front of sleeve 36-44-25-23, hollowing out % inch at 
point 24. 

27 to 43 is % inch. 

S to 42 is 114 inch. 

Shape the inseam 37-43-42-40. 

Draw the under arm seam 23-31, which completes the draft. 

34 




SPLIT SLEEVE BALMACAAN WITH HINGE. 



35 



MANTEL OVERCOAT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 36. 
Length, 42 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B E C P F G. 
A to B is 34 inch. 
B to E is Vi. of 20. 
B to C is 1/2 of 20. 
C to P is 3 inches. 
B to F is 171/0 inches. 
B to G is 42 inches. 

Square out from points A B E C P F G. 
G to H is 114 inches. 
B to Q is 1/6 of 20 plus y, inch. 
Square up from Q to R. 
Q to 1 is % inch. 

I to R is 11/4 inches. 

C to J is 1/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. 

Square up from J to L. 

Square down from J to 13. 

J to I is 1/6 of 20. 

Square down from I to K. 

L to V is 1/6 of 20 plus i/j inch. 

Square down from V to Q. 

V to Q is % inch. 

Draw line Q-0. 

to 3 is 1/2 inch. 

K to N is 1/3 of 20 plus 1 inch. 

Draw line 3-N. 

N to M is 114 inches. 

Shape the bottom M-H. 

Take the distance Q-3 using it an a radius from point R. 

to 2 is 20 inches plus 1/2 inch. 

R is halfway between and 2. 

Square out from R to 8. 

R to 8 is 17 inches. 

Square out from 5 to 6 and 5 to 7. 

5 to 6 and -5 to 7 are 714 inches each. 

Draw line R-2. 

Draw lines 2-7 and 3-6. 

II is halfway between R and 2. 
11 to 12 is 11/2 inches. 

Shape the lines R-12-2. 2-9-7, and 6-10-3, which complete the com- 
bination of back and sleeve. 

FOREPART. 

C to I to T is 20 inches. 

T to U is .5 inches. 

Square up from U to W and down from U to Z. 

B to 15 is 1/6 of bi'east. 

Draw line L-15-X. 

X to 16 is 111/2 inches. 

Sweep from point Q, using Q-M as a radius to establish Z. 

Shape the gorge, lapel and front and draw line M-Z, which completes 
the draft. 



36 




MANTEL OVERCOAT. 

37 



TWO BUTTON D. B. Y. MEN'S SURTOUT. 

This coat is drafted with a high waist effect and a narrow shoulder^ 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 38. 
Waist length, I6I/0 inches. 
Fashionable Waist length, 18 inches. 
Full length, 40 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line ABCDEFGK. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is 1/4. of 21. 
B to D is 1/2 of 21. 
B to E is leVi inches. 
B to F is 18 inches. 
B to G is 24 inches. 
B to K is the full length or 40 inches. 
Square out from points ABCDEFGK. 
F to G is 1 inch. 
Come back 14 inch at point K. 
Draw line B-J-K. 
B to L is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. 
Square up from L to M. 
L to M is 1 14 inches. 
Draw line A-M. 
D to N is 1/3 of 20. 
N to is 2 inches. 
Square up from to P. 
Q is halfway between P and R. 
Draw lines M-Q and Q-R. 
Draw line T-J. 
J to 5 is 1/8 of 20. 
Square up from 5 to 6. 
Shape the side-seam R-5-23, which completes the back. 

SIDE-BODY. 
5 to 7 is li/> inches. 
Square up from 7 to 8. 
13 to 11 is V4. of 20. 
D to 10 is 1/2 of 20 plus % inch. 
Draw line 10-11. 

Drop point R one-half inch and come out %. inch at point S^ 
Shape the lines S-10, 10-11-9, and S-8-7. 
Draw line 7-9, which completes the side-body. 

FOREPART. 
W is 20 inches from line B-J. 
W to X is 31/2 inches. 
Square up from X to Z. 
X to Y is 21/1. inches, Y> of the button stand. 
Square up and down from point Y. 
D to T is 2,3 of 20 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from T to U. 
U to V is 1/6 of 20. 
V to 14 is 1/2 inch. 
Draw line 14-Q. 

2 to 14 is 14 inch less than M to Q. 
2 to 3 is % inch. 

38 




TWO BUTTON D. B. Y. MEN'S SURTOUT. 

Shape the shoulder 3-14 and the armhole 3-10. 

11 to 12 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape the side-seam 10-12-9. 

Z to 14 is 1/6 of 20 plus 14 inch. 

17 to 16 is 14 inchse. 

Shape the gorge and lapel, as illustrated. 

Draw line 7-18. 

Shape the bottom 9-19-18. 

Take out V-t. inch Vee at point 20, which completes the forepart. 

SKIRT. 
23 to 24 is 11/2 inches. 

Draw line 26-24-25 and make it 1 inch longer than J-K. 
Draw line 26-21, hollowing out 1 inch at point 27. 
Square down from 21 to 22. 
Come out 14 inch at point 22. 
Draw line 22-25. 
Shape the bottom as illustrated. 

Shape the back seam, rounding out 1 inch at point 24, which completes 
the skirt. 

39 



YOUNG MEN'S NOVELTY OVERCOAT. 

Breast size, 36. 
Length, 40 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line A B C D E F G. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is 14 of 20. 
B to D is 1/2 of 20. 
B to E is 17 inches. 
B to G is 24 inches. 
B to F is 40 inches or the full length. 
Square out from points A B C D E G F. 
F to G is 1V$J inches. 

F to H is % inch. ; 

Draw line B-G-H. 
B to H is 1/6 of 20 plus %. inch. 
Square up from N to O. 
N to is 11/2 inches. 
Draw line A-0. 

D to J is 1/3 of 19 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from J to L. 
M is halfway between L and line C. 
Draw line 0-M. 
J to K is 1/12 of 20. 
K to W is % inch. 
Draw line M-W. 
G to P is 1/3 of 19. 
Square down from P to Q. 
Q to R is 114. inches. 
Shape the side-seam W-P-2-R. which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 

D to S is 2/3 of 19 plus 1% inches. 

Square up from S to T. 

T to U is 1/6 of 19 plus V2 inch. 

Square down from U to V. 

U to V is V-2 inch. 

Draw line V-M. 

V to 9 is 14 inch less than to M. 

Shape the shoulder 9-V and the armhole 9-W. 

P to X is 1 inch. 

2 to Z is 21/j inches. 
H to Y is 1 inch. 

Shape the side-seam W-X-Z-Y and make it Vs inch longer than W-P- 
2-R. 

Lines B-G to point 3 is 19 inches or 1/2 of the breast. 

3 to 4 is 31/2 inches. 

4 to 5 is 21/2 inches. 
Square down from 4 to 11. 
Square up and down from point 5. 



40 




YOUNG MEN'S NOVELTY OVERCOAT. 

6 to 7 is 1/6 of 19. 

7 to 14 is 11 inches. 

Shape the gorge, lapel and front, as illustrated. 
Shape the bottom and take out ^i. inch Vee at point 12 and 14 inch 
Vee at point 13, which completes the draft. 



41 



MILITARY COLLAR MACKINAW. 

This draft is made 3 in. larger than actual breast measure. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast size, 38. 
Length, 34 inches. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line M A C B D E F. 
M to A is % inch. 
A to C is 14. of 21. 
A to B is 1/2 of 21. 
A to D is 171/2 inches. 
A to E is 24 inches. 
A to F is the full length or 34 inches. 
Square out from points M A C B D E F. 
F to G is 114 inches. 
Draw line A-G. 

A to L is 1/6 of 21 plus 1/2 inch. 
Square up from L to M. 
L to M is 11/2 inches. 
B to I is 1/3 of 201/2 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from I to J. 
P is halfway between S and J. 
Draw line N-P. 
I to Q is 11/2 of 21. 
Q to R is % inch. 
Draw line P-K 

I to H is % inch. 

Square down from H to K. 

K to is 114 inches. 

Draw line R-0. 

Shape the bottom G-0. 

For a whole back take off 14. inch on line M-G. 

FOREPART. 
B to T is 2/3 of 201/2 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from T to U. 
U to V is 1/6 of 201/2 plus 1/2 inch. 
Drop point of shoulder 14- inch at V. 

II is halfway between P and S. 
Draw line V-11. 

V to 10 is 14 inch less than N to P. 

Shape the shoulder 10-V and the armhole 10-13-R. 

Take out 14, inch at point R. 

4 to 5 is 14 inch. 

6 is 21/2 inches from line H-K. 

Shape the side-seam R-4-6-7 and make it Mt inch longer than R-0- 

W is 1/2 of breast or 20 1/2 inches from line M-G. 

W to X is 21/2 inches. 

X to Y is 2 inches. 

Square up from Y to 1 and down from Y to 17. 

1 to 2 is 1/6 of 201/2. 

V to 3 is Vi of 201/2. 

Shape the gorge and front V-3-9-15-16. 



42 




MILITARY COLLAR MACKINAW. 

43 



Sweep from point V-7 to 17. 

Draw line 17-16. 

Shape the bottom, as illustrated, which completes the forepart. 

COLLAR. 
The collar for a size 38 should measure ISVa inches. The under-collar 
should be drafted 1 inch larger, making it measure finished I6I/2 inches. 
Draw line 1-2-3-4. 

1 to 2 is 11/2 inches. 

2 to 3 is 8 1/2 inches. 

3 to 4 is % inch. 

Square down from points 1-2-3-4. 
3 to 6 is 1/12 of 201/2- 

6 to 7 is IV2 inches. 

7 to 8 is 314 inches. 
Square out from S to 10. 
2 to 5 is 11/4, inches. 
Draw lines 6-2 and 7-5. 
5 to 9 is 3 inches. 

Shape the bottom 8-9 and the front 9-5-2, which completes the collar. 



RAGLAN SLEEVE MACKINAW. 



The method used in drafting this 
sleeve can be applied to overcoats. 

MEASUREMENTS. 

Breast size, 36. 
Length, 33 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line A B C D E F G. 

A to B is % inch. 

B to C is Vi of 20. 

B to D is 1/2 of 20. 

B to E is 171/2 inches. 

B to F is 24 inches. 

B to G is 33 inches, full length 
of coat. 

Square out from points A B C D 
E F G. 

G to H is 114 inches. 

Draw line B-H. 

B to R is 1/6 of 20. 

Square up from R to S. 

R to S is li/> inches. 

D to J is 1/3 of 19 plus 2 inches. 

Square up from J to 0. 

Dra wline S-P. 

J to Q is 1/12 of 20. 

Square out from Q to T. 

Q to T is 1 inch. 

Draw line S-T. 

L to M is 1/3 of 20 plus 1 inch. 

J to K is 1 inch. 

Draw line K-M-N. 

Shape the side-seam T-M-N, 
which completes the back. 



FOREPART. 
D to X is 2/3 of 19 plus 1% 
inches. 

Square up from X to 4. 

4 to 5 is 1/6 of 19 plus 1/2 inch. 
Square down from 5 to 7. 

5 to 7 is % inch. 
Draw line 7-12. 

Shape the armhole 7-12-P. 
Take 14 inch at point T. 
M to 13 is 1/2 inch. 

V to 14 is 21/0 inches. 
Draw line 13-15. 

Shape the side-seam P-13-15 
making it i/a inch more than T-N. 
D to Y is 19 inches. 

Y to Z is 31/2 inches. 

Z to 3 is 21/2 inches, 1/2 of button 
stand. 

Square up from 3 to 6 and down 
from 3 to 10. 

6 to 8 is 1/6 of 19. 
Draw line 4-8. 

8 to 9 is 10 inches. 

Sweep from point 7 using 7-15 
as a radius, to establish point 10. 
Draw line 1.5-10. 

Shape the gorge, lapel and front 
and bottom, which completes the 
forepart. 

SLEEVE. 
X to 12 is li/i inches. 
12 to 40 is 1/2 of 19. 
Square down from 40 to 20. 



44 




RAGLAN SLEEVE MACKINAW. 



Make an arch from point U, us- 
ing U-S as a radius. 

Take the distance U-S and make 
an arch, using 40 as a center. 

These two arches intersect at 
point 34. 

Draw line 34-40. 

32 is halfway between 31 and 40. 

34 to 3.5 is 1 inch. 

Draw line 35-32. 

X to 21 is 114 inches. 

X to 22 is 11/1. inches. 

Square down from X to 23. 

23 to 24 is 1 inch. 

24 to 25 is 114 inches. 
24 to 26 is IV4. inches. 

Draw lines 21-25 and 22-26, hoi- 
lowing out 34 inch. 

Square out from line 23 to 29. 
24 to 29 is 714 inches. 
Square down from 29 to 30. 
29 to 30 is 11/2 inches. 



20 to 39 is '/) inch. 

Draw lines 34-40 and 40-30. 

Shape the inseam line 35-32-37. 

Take the distance 32-35 and 
make an arch using point 32 as a 
pivot. 

Take the distance 12-7 and make 
an arch, using point 12 as the pivot, 
intersecting at point 33. 

Draw line 33-32. 

Draw line 33-36. 

33 to 36 is 1 inch. 

Shape the front part of sleeve 
36-12-21. 

UNDER SLEEVE. 
40 to 17 is -^i inch. 
Draw line 17-30. 
Shape line 17-W. 
Draw the bottom 30-26, which 
completes the draft. 



45 



SHAWL COLLAR MACKINAW. 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Breast 38. 
Length 33. 

DRAFT. 
Draw line ABCDEF. 
A to B is 14 of 21 plus % inch. 
B to C is 1/4. of 21. 
A to D is 171/2 inches. 
A to E is 25 inches. 
A to F is the full length or 33 inches. 
Square out from points ABCDEF^ 
F to G is 11/1. inches. 
Draw line A-G. 

A to is 1/6 of 21 plus Vn inch. 
Square up from to P. 
O to P is II/2 inches. 
C to H is 2/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from H to I.. 
M is halfway bewteen L and line B. 
M to 11 is V-i inch. 
Draw line P-11. 
H to N is 1 inch 

Square out 1 inch from N to point 9. 
Draw line 11-N. 
H to J is Vi inch. 
Square down from J to K. 
K to 5 is 'Yt. inch. 
Shape the side seam N-8-.5. 
Plait in back -i j. inch as illustrated by 17-18.8 

FOREPART. 
C to R is 2/3 of 20 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from R to V. 
V to X is 1 /6 of 20 plus U, inch 
Drop shoulder I/4. inch at point X. 
Draw line X-10. 
10 to X is % less than P to 11. 
Shape the shoulder 10-X and the armhole 10-9. 
8 to 7 is 1/2 inch. 
13 to 12 is 21/2 inches. 

Shape the side .seam 9-7 12-6, making it !/« more than the side seam of 
"back. 

C to S is 20 inches. 

S to T is 31/2 inches. 

T to U is 21/2 inches or 1/2 of button stand. 

Square up from U to W and down from U to Z. 

W to 14 is 1,'6 of 20. 

Draw 15-14. 

Shape the gorge X-14 and the front 14-4. 

Sweep from point X, using X-6 as a radius to establi-sh point Z. 

Shape the bottom 4-6, which completes the draft. 

NOTE.— See Draft of Shawl Collar on Page 20-21. 



46 




SHAWL COLLAR MACKINAW. 



47 



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